This downtown spot is bringing London’s Indo-British energy to Toronto

Punch: The Vibe

There’s nothing left to hint at the previous restaurant that occupied the ground floor of the Le Germain Hotel on Mercer Street before this new restaurant opening. Pushing through the lobby doors, it feels like stepping through Platform 9¾ into another world: The lights are low, and the packed, wood-panelled dining room hums with an energy I haven’t felt since the pre-pandemic era.

The Indo-British concept draws on the zeitgeist of London restaurants like Dishoom, blending the spirit of the East India Company with the reinterpreted flavours of Indian aunties and British mums.

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The main dining room glows by the light of the individual lamps on each white linen swathed table, while the breathtaking chandeliers illuminate from on high. Photographs and paintings peer down from the walls, shelves glint with commemorative plates and patterned upholstery invites guests to sink deeper into the charm of the space, designed by Block Plan Studios.

Punch: The Menu

After stints at Toronto darlings like Le Select Bistro and BUCA Osteria & Bar, executive chef Mandar Kulkarni has created a lineup of dishes that reflect his own story and cultural roots. Punch’s menu is made to share — just as well, since it’s impossible to whittle down the many tasty options.

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Dinner kicks off with the Mumbai Chat-Slaw, a medley of fresh apple, radish and pomegranate with a lethal left hook of tamarind and boondi, the deliciously crispy chickpea snack beloved on Indian streets. The Madai Crudo is another lesson in flavour layering: a tamarind-coconut vinaigrette replaces the usual acid, while a crisp pear-kohlrabi relish cuts through the richness of the yellowtail amberjack.

Showstopping though the appetizers are, Punch’s main dishes truly hit for six. I rarely need encouragement when it comes to beef wellington, but here the pastry-wrapped tenderloin paired with a rogan josh jus makes it even more unforgettable.

Even with limited belly space, we can’t skip dessert. The sticky toffee pudding — rich, decadent and infused with stout beer, walnuts and dates — is heavenly, while Punch’s Tableside Chai-Chocolate Mousse offers a playful, drive-by take on the milk chocolate dessert, topped with cocoa nibs, chantilly cream and a drizzle of olive oil.

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Punch: The Drinks

With a name inspired by the world’s first cocktail, it stands to reason that the cocktail program also packs a punch. Playful twists on British classics fly out of the stunning bar, with its checkered green and beige marble floors, stained glass and shelves heaving with bottles.

The Crown Jewel is Punch’s version of the cocktail du jour, with Darjeeling bitters and caviar-stuffed olives adding to the allure of the classic gin martini.

The Southhall Sour cocktail, with amontillado sherry, pistachio orgeat, cardamom and orange blossom water at Punch

My personal favourite though, is the Anika № 5, which serves a combination of tequila blanco, lychee, piri piri, dragonfruit, fresh lime and egg white from an iced sidecar — a margarita meets pisco sour that balances spicy and sweet in each sip.

Cocktail naysayers can turn to Punch’s considerable wine offering or its beer list; a mix of domestic gems and Indian fave Kingfisher.

Dinner and drinks for two: around $240 before tax and tip.