This new King West cocktail bar rivals its legendary Toronto speakeasy

As much as I loved Coffee, Oysters, Champagne, the juxtaposition between its ultra-feminine, cotton-candy pink and cream interior and its alter ego as a moody haunt that's easily one of the best speakeasies in the city caused some serious whiplash. Now, redecorated and redubbed Hotel À Toi, it feels like one cohesive space, with the bar's outward-facing appearance and all of its secrets housed firmly under one glamorous concept.

Hotel À Toi: The Vibe

It's the Roaring Twenties all over again (even though it feels more like the Trade War Twenties for us), and Hotel À Toi leans right into all the glitz, glamour and charm. Decked out to capture all of the transient romance of the hotel lobby bar, the Lobby is where you first check in for a stay at this King West cocktail spot in the heart of the Entertainment District. 

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A shiny gold bellman cart sports fake suitcases, and there are postcards available for guests that they'll really mail out for you. It still has all the whimsy that made me fall in love with Coffee, Oysters, Champagne, but now in a setting that's more balanced between feminine and masculine. All the while, low lounge seating makes the Lobby feel just as much a cocktail destination as the bar's secret speakeasy.

Inside the new gift shop, there are the usual hotel wares for purchase — cute candles, soaps, eye masks, local coffee — along with some "antique heirlooms" found in the rubble when they were building the hotel (they really commit to the bit). This is where you'll find the secret door that transports you back in time to a Gatsby-style party with even more surprises. (Note: You can't exit the way you entered, so if you don't know downtown well, make sure you have Google Maps installed on your phone before you leave.)

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Hotel À Toi: The cocktails

Yes, there's still champagne on the menu, but the newfound focus on classic cocktails in the Lobby completely steals the spotlight. Each one has its own twist and is served with a delightful little bite made in-house — a welcome departure from the city's fixation on over-the-top garnishes that are often not at all enjoyable to consume. 

My go-to classic cocktail is always a daiquiri (the OG one made with three ingredients: rum, lime and sugar. Not the frozen, saccharine monstrosities you're picturing from your last all-inclusive vacation). So it's safe to say I've had more than a few of them, from some of the best bars in Toronto, and the one at Hotel À Toi, dubbed Do Not Disturb, takes the cake. It hits all the right notes: boozy, citrusy, with that hint of sugar. And it's served with a wash of nostalgia for millennials in the form of tiny rum graham cracker cookies with a dippable lime icing that takes me straight back to eating Dunkaroos as a kid — minus all the chemicals. 

The Night Porter, a creamy, classic espresso martini, is elevated with Grey Goose and a sprinkle of cocoa powder, while Meet Me in the Lobby, a well-made French 75, comes with a delectable lavender riesling sorbet. On the stronger side, the Key to the Penthouse is an old fashioned made with blended scotch (who needs bourbon anyways?) and Demerara sugar, and smoked with cherry wood. The smoke really comes through and the scotch leaves its mark on this fine sipper. 

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Hotel À Toi: The food menu

Light bites and snacks round out the hotel lobby bar theme. The Golden Pillows are the best mouthful of the night — aged cheddar and charred green onion are stuffed into crunchy balls of heaven and served with crème fraîche and bacon crumble.

Oysters still come naked or dressed; steak tartare is served as a two-bite snack on crostinis with smoked provolone, caper, cornichon, dijonnaise, parsley and pickled red onion; and buttermilk biscuits are exactly as they should be.

In its former life as Coffee, Oysters, Champagne, it always felt like a waiting area for the night to start, so it's ironic that the cocktail bar is now themed after the transient hotel lobby bar, yet feels more like its own destination than ever. It's clear that a lot of thought and effort has been put into everything from the bar program to the bites. I've always loved the speakeasy, but now it feels like Hotel À Toi is a place to linger a while and enjoy, whether you're "touring the gift shop" or not.