Right now, everything I want to eat lives somewhere between sugar and spice. It's that moment where the summer heat meets a cooler evening, and you realize it's not quite summer yet, but it's close enough to start cooking like it is. Sticky, smoky, a little messy, maybe a touch too much, and exactly right — for me, hot honey is no longer a trend, but a default in my pantry, nearly as essential as olive oil.

Now that grilling season is here, my BBQ is out and ready for those nightly moments where something hits the flame and instantly feels like the right decision. This is the time of year when flavours get louder, when food starts to lean into contrast, and when a red wine, especially an easy-drinking Canadian red from the Okanagan Valley, has the opportunity to actually take centre stage at the table again.

This is usually the point where I start paying a little more attention to what’s actually on shelves at the LCBO, looking for something that can keep up with all of that flavour without making it feel complicated. You feel it pretty quickly when you find the right bottle, and Lava Red from Volcanic Hills Winery is one that just clicks. It is the kind of B.C. red wine that works beautifully with smoky BBQ, hot honey dishes, grilled meats and spicy summer food while still feeling relaxed and approachable enough for any night of the week.

The red you didn’t know you needed

Lava Red is not trying to be the boldest wine in the room, and that is exactly why it works. It opens with ripe plum and blackberry, generous without feeling heavy, then moves into cocoa, baking spice and something warm that lingers. The tannins are soft and rounded, almost melting into the texture, which is really what carries the wine. It feels plush, but never overwhelming, and it moves across the palate in a way that feels easy.

What makes this wine stand out is that subtle lift of sweetness, not enough to define it, but enough to completely change how it behaves once there is food on the table. It sits in that in-between space we do not talk about enough, somewhere between fully dry and overtly sweet, and that space lines up perfectly with how a lot of us are eating right now. Instead of pushing against spice or sharpening acidity, it softens, rounds and connects. The fruit mirrors what is happening on the plate, while the structure stays relaxed enough to let everything unfold naturally.

For years, we have been encouraged to chase dryness and structure, but the way we eat has shifted. Our plates are layered, often intentionally, with sweetness, spice, salt and richness — sometimes all at once. It keeps things interesting, it keeps you going back for another bite and it asks something different from the wine.

When you bring something too rigid into that mix, it can feel slightly off. Tannins can push the heat too far, acidity can sharpen things in a way that feels distracting, and suddenly the wine is no longer part of the experience. Lava Red handles that differently. That touch of sweetness softens spice without muting it, while the fruit leans into those deeper, caramelized flavours you get from BBQ and roasted dishes. Everything starts to feel like it belongs together.

Volcanic soil at its core, shaped by a family behind it

That way of thinking feels very much tied to how Volcanic Hills Winery approaches what they do. Based in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, the winery sits along the slopes of Mount Boucherie, an extinct volcano that has shaped both the landscape and the soils. The name Volcanic Hills is not just a reference; it is part of the identity of the place, and there is something about that contrast that carries through. What was once intense and fiery now shows up as something balanced and expressive.

The winery itself is family-run, built by the Gidda family with a focus on making wines people actually want to drink. There is no sense of over-complication, no need to make something that requires explanation before it can be enjoyed. These are wines made for tables, for gatherings and for meals that get a little louder as the night goes on. There is a clear understanding that wine exists alongside food, not separate from it.

You feel that in Lava Red. It does not try to dominate the table; it settles in and moves with the meal, making everything feel more cohesive without asking for too much in return.

And once it is there, the pairings start to come together almost instinctively.

Hot honey, smoke and everything in between

Hot honey wings are an easy starting point because they capture everything this wine handles well: crisp, sticky, sweet, spicy, with just enough heat to build as you eat. With a more structured red, that heat can take over quickly, but here it softens just enough, letting the spice sit where it should while the fruit picks up on the glaze.

Hot honey pizza brings in more texture and richness. The salt of the cheese, the drizzle of sweetness and the slight char from the crust all need something flexible. Lava Red moves through that easily, connecting those sweet and savoury elements without making the whole thing feel heavy. Slightly chilled, it adds just enough lift to keep everything balanced.

Spicy bao shifts things into a softer space. The bun is pillowy, the filling rich and the spice lifts everything just enough to keep it interesting. The texture of the wine mirrors that softness, while the fruit keeps the richness from settling too deeply.

BBQ, in all of its forms, is where this wine really settles in. Ribs with a thick glaze, sausages with a bit of char, skewers brushed with something sweet and smoky — these are flavours built on caramelization and depth. Lava Red does not try to cut through any of that; it moves alongside it, letting those flavours build while supporting everything on the plate.

Even dessert finds its place, especially with dark chocolate. The slight bitterness plays off the fruit, the cocoa notes echo back into the wine, and the sweetness sits just right so neither side takes over.

The one you grab without thinking

What I like about Lava Red is that it just works. You don’t have to overthink it or plan the whole meal around it, it just shows up and makes everything feel a little more put together. It moves easily from one dish to the next, from something spicy to something rich to something sweet, and it never feels out of place.

And honestly, that is how I have been eating lately: a mix of flavours, a bit of this and that, something on the grill, something a little indulgent, something with heat. Hot honey, smoke, spice and sweetness, all layered together. This is a wine that fits into that without trying to control it, and that is exactly why I keep reaching for it.

You can find Lava Red at the LCBO right now, which makes it an easy add to the table, and if you happen to come across their Magma Red as well, it is absolutely worth getting your hands on. It leans into that same bold, flavour-driven space, and once you start cooking like this for the season, having both on hand just makes sense.

Find your bottle of Volcanic Hills Lava Red 

To learn more, head to volcanichillswinery.com