Dine like a "White Lotus" guest at the new Oro Small Plates & Cocktails

ORO Small Plates & Cocktails: What's the vibe?

Chef and restaurateur Hemant Bhagwani flies relatively under the radar in Toronto's dining scene, considering he has around 70 restaurant openings under his belt. Tucked right beside heavy hitters DaiLo and Bar Raval on College Street, his latest venture has big shoes to fill to keep up, but it might just deliver.

Oro is unlike anything I've experienced before: The decor changes slightly every "episode," while the entire concept changes every "season," just like the restaurant's inspiration, The White Lotus. Bhagwani describes it as a "pop-up on steroids."

I visit during "Season One, Episode One," days after its opening. "Oro" means "gold" in Spanish, and there's plenty of the lush colour throughout the modern vintage glam space. Under the arching ceilings, crushed velvet blends with rattan and wood panelling meets curving wall cut-outs, all illuminated by a mix of strip lighting and geometric pendant lights. It's soothing, sophisticated and all a little eccentric. 

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ORO Small Plates & Cocktails: What's on the menu?

The plates are as experimental as the concept, blending Indian dishes and flavours with global influences. Served in the style of Spanish tapas, everything is meant to be shared, which is great because you'll want to try as many of these bewildering bites as possible.

Before it arrives on the table, I can't fathom how shrimps, calamari and fried okra can possibly be served on top of hummus, but surprisingly, the mixture of seafood with the light creamy dip really, really works. Our server promises that once we take a bite, we won't be able to stop, and he's not exaggerating. We dummy the whole bowl of dip (and two orders of warm, chewy naan) in the blink of an eye.

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Avocados aren't exactly known for their robust flavour, but the smoked avocado tartare has it in spades. Made in the style of Indian chaat, it's savoury, smoky and sweet all at once. "Who would think to smoke an avocado?" laughs Bhagwani, admiring his own work — and it deserves all the praise.

We add all of the parsley and parmesan, and just a touch of chili peppers to the claypot rice that's stirred up tableside. On the larger side, the creamy, smoky bowl of risotto-esque rice is full of meaty morels and black truffles. It's super comforting, like a warm hug in a bowl. (I could order it for takeout and eat it in my pyjamas all winter long.)

Another larger plate, the black cod leans more into the menu's Indian flavours. The flaky fish is served swimming in a bright orange coastal curry that's full of flavour without bringing too much heat, and comes with a bowl of spiced basmati rice. 

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ORO Small Plates & Cocktails: What's on the drink list?

I'm surprised to find not one, but three milk punches on the drink list. I love clarified cocktails for the smooth and silky mouthfeel that comes from the fat wash, plus it allows them to be boozier without that kick in the throat that often accompanies a strong serve. The subtly spicy Mango & Chipotle and the frothy, tart Blueberry & Pineapple cocktails are both fruity and refreshing with a balanced sweetness, but are far from sugary. The only cocktail I try that would satiate a sweet tooth is the foamy Strawberry Cheesecake cocktail, which tastes just like the dessert, and makes for a perfect digestif. 

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Bellinis always make me think of the overly sweet drinks adorned with tiny, colourful, plastic animals (IYKYK), but at the end of summer, the seasonal bellini at Oro tastes like an Ontario peach in a glass. Fresh peach purée mingles with prosecco and rose water for an elegant take on the crushable cocktail.

It's hard to say whether I like the Tamarind & Honeycomb, or its beautifully intricate cookie garnish more. The smooth, whisky-forward serve has hints of sweetness from honey and tamarind, but maintains its slow-sipping, boozy character. 

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Bursting with the spirit's signature smoky flavour, the Cucumber & Mezcal is balanced with refreshing cucumber, celery, and a sweet and spicy chili honey syrup. It's easily my favourite drink of the night, accentuating the smoky flavours in the dishes.

The cocktails fit in seamlessly with the food, like a missing puzzle piece — they just click. The notes are complex yet subtle and balanced in the glass, allowing the flavourful dishes to shine. And everything tastes like it's made with real, fresh ingredients. 

Oro is an easy choice for an upscale but relaxed night of sips and bites in a vintage glam setting. Just like its inspiration, The White Lotus, Oro draws you in with its luxurious feel, indulgent flavours and the novelty of its unique and original plates and cocktails. I can't wait to see what the next "season" has in store for us. 

Dinner and drinks for two: Around $150 before tax and tip

orotoronto.com