Lyla Toronto
60 Sudbury St.
Toronto
Ontario
CA
M6J 3S7
647-948-7997
At only two years old, Lyla can still be counted among the recent new Toronto restaurant openings. But a meal here leaves me shocked that I haven't tried it sooner.
Hidden at the foot of Dovercourt and Sudbury Street, it's not a location you would stumble upon by accident unless you missed the turn at Dufferin and were trying to weave your way into Liberty Village. Perhaps that's why Lyla has flown completely under my radar until now, because this restaurant deserves a lot more fanfare.
After speaking on the panel at Mother of All Talks, an ongoing speaker series presented by Valley of Mother of God Gin, I stick around to chat with executive chef Michael Madeiros and dive into some of the restaurant's best plates.
Lyla Toronto: What's the vibe?
The atmosphere at Lyla strikes a beautiful balance between feminine and masculine that I really appreciate. Dark maroon leather banquettes and chunky stone columns are offset by modern velvet chairs and gold trimmings. Giant pendant lights in the shape of dangling upside-down flowers leave me gawking. Polished but unpretentious, it's the kind of space that anyone could feel comfortable in.
While the vibe on this particular night was co-opted by the special event, Lyla feels like it would fall right in the middle of the spectrum between an appropriate locale for a business dinner and one of Toronto's most romantic restaurants.
Lyla Toronto: What's on the menu?
If I had bet on what kind of cuisine Lyla serves, I would have lost all my money because the unrestrained use of ingredients like gochujang doesn't exactly scream "Mediterranean" to me — but I'm here for it. Korean and Japanese flavours and influences add intrigue to otherwise straightforward dishes on the menu, mingling with quality, local ingredients that really shine. Enthused by his unique flavour combinations, chef Madeiros's passion for his cooking is contagious.
Carpaccio is made with the more premium bluefin tuna, and given a citrusy kick from blood orange, wasabi aioli and pickled chili. Spanish croquettes marry jamon iberico béchamel with hamachi sashimi and a gochujang aioli.
The cauliflower reaches unholy levels of deliciousness that I can only attribute to witchcraft. It's perfectly crispy on the outside and somehow fluffy on the inside, and still actually tastes like seasoned cauliflower (unlike the many fried cauliflower dishes in the city that are so thick with breading and slathered with sauce, you can't tell what you're actually eating under there). A bed of hummus, honey, confit garlic sauce and mint, with bursts of sweet and tart pomegranate add layers of flavour to the dish.
When I visit, the whole fish is light, flaky, crispy and served on a bed of tangy, lip-smacking sauce. The Linguine all'Aragosta is everything I could ever dream of: thick noodles and bite-sized pieces of Atlantic lobster soaked in a savoury, creamy, tomato-y, VSOP lobster bisque sauce with a kick from (you guessed it) gochujang. I could eat this pasta over and over and over again — and never get bored of it.
Lyla Toronto: The drink menu
As a new zebra-striper, I start with a mocktail that's sweet, tart, refreshing and just as interesting as a real cocktail — though there are plenty of enticing serves on the list of house creations in both categories. With dinner, we switch to wine from the lengthy list available by the glass or bottle, and divided by region rather than varietal, with plenty of the Old World represented. We land on a mineraly chablis that deliciously cuts through the rich flavours of the meal, pairing well with every bite.
While the location is a bit out of the way, Lyla is very much worth the trip for global flavours and local ingredients prepared with passion and care, and served in a comfortable, modern dining room.
Dinner and drinks for two: around $170 before tax and tip.
