The Frederick is a refined take on the classic bar and grill worth savouring

Having already fallen in love with The Chase's gorgeous cream-coated interior, succulent seafood dishes and decadent plates of pasta, I had a good feeling about my first date with The Frederick.

Located on the ground floor of the historic Dineen Building — beneath its elegant sister restaurant that presides over the rooftop — The Frederick is one of Toronto's hottest new restaurant openings, and also comes from celebrity chef Cory Vitiello (Flock, Harbord Room). While the head of culinary development at Chase Hospitality Group has made his mark on both restaurants, The Frederick is all Vitiello. It's the concept he says he feels most at home in, and it shows.

The Frederick: What's the vibe

Bathed in warm toffee, brown wood and cream coloured brick, the restaurant is decidedly casual, but doesn't lack any polish. Vitiello wanted to create a concept that offers all the quality of The Chase, but feels more welcoming to diners who might not be as comfortable in the glamorous space upstairs. Instead of magnificent chandeliers, potlights are snug in the ceiling and approachable art pieces adorn the walls.

Both restaurants feel comfortable to me, but I would joyfully spend hours getting ready for a meal at The Chase, while The Frederick is a spot I could easily wander into after a day of work, shopping or sightseeing. It's a relaxed restaurant where I could bring a mixed crowd, like coworkers or a group of friends — or even my dad. 

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The Frederick: What's on the menu

Vitiello's menu is full of classic dishes and familiar ingredients, but the way they're reinvented into new and exciting flavour combinations and plating styles is what really makes the food here shine. 

Don’t be misled by the name — the Shrimp Louie Salad is far from a standard plate of greens. The three jumbo prawns sitting perched on a wedge of iceberg lettuce slathered in house thousand island dressing and surrounded by chunks of avocado and campari tomatoes feels more like a seafood dish than a plate of greens. I never thought I would use this word to describe a salad, but it is indulgent, yet still feels like I've made a good choice for my body.

Another seafood shareable, the Big Eye Tuna Tartare, arrives tasting remarkably fresh — layered over a creamy avocado and cucumber base and finished with a generous sprinkle of sesame. The Zucchini Fritti, meanwhile, is a heaping plate of golden, shoestring zucchini dusted with pecorino. Think of them as a more intriguing, less heavy take on fries, especially when dipped into the bright lemon aioli.

The buttermilk fried chicken is perfectly seasoned, tender and succulent. The flavour strikes just the right balance, showing respect for fresh ingredients without overwhelming the palate. Each bite leaves you wanting more.

The iconic Harbord Room Burger is back from the great beyond, but this reincarnation is even better than the original. Vitiello has perfected this fan favourite with a fresh ground, dry-aged chuck and brisket patty that's expertly seasoned. And the dressings are pure melt-in-your-mouth magic: Guinness onions, shredded lettuce and white cheddar, all on a pillowy brioche bun.

I'm in an impossible love triangle with two different entrees. The Malfadine & Wild Mushrooms is a savoury, decadent dish loaded with meaty mushrooms and a creamy white wine sauce that has me savouring every bite. It's warm, cozy and comforting, without feeling too heavy.

But on the other hand, the Miso Glazed Salmon is a more exciting date. Organic king salmon sits on a bed of forbidden black rice, surrounded by a moat of sesame and ginger ponzu, with a creamy coconut and cucumber salad, and pickled honey mushrooms on the side. It's savoury, sweet, tangy and every combination in between, depending on what part of the dish you scoop onto your fork with each bite.

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A Soft Serve Sundae sounds simple enough, but the juxtaposition of sour cherries on the sweet mascarpone and vanilla ice cream adds a little complexity to this dessert. The Coconut Tres Leches Cake is another sleeper: Incredibly soft, moist (sorry) sponge cake is topped with the freshest whipped cream you've ever tasted and crispy coconut flakes.

The Warm Valrhona Dark Chocolate Cake arrives with the anticipation of a chocolate aroma infusing the air. The delicate crust gives way to a molten centre that balances sweetness and depth, while a light cream adds a lovely contrast.

The Frederick: What's on the drink menu

The food entirely steals the show at The Frederick, but there is a nice and concise selection of international and local wine available by the glass or bottle. Cocktails range from classics and signature serves to an entire martini service. The Ginza Sour is a crushable sipper that's as beautiful as it is tasty, while the Sol Y Sombra drinks like a floral, herbal margarita.

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For a crowd-pleasing meal that wins everyone over, from friends and family to coworkers, I would go back to The Frederick again and again. The atmosphere is comfortable and refined, while the plates dazzle the palate with fresh ingredients and unique but familiar flavours. Afternoon and late night happy hours offer even more reason to visit this Financial District gem.

Dinner and drinks for two: around $140 before tax and tip.

thefrederickto.com