Hearing the methods behind Slice of Life’s cocktail program, my head spins faster than the centrifuge tucked away in the Kensington Market speakeasy’s basement: which is 4,200 times a minute, according to Eric Pan, the general manager, beverage director and co-owner.
Pan employs scientific equipment like a rotary evaporator, dehydrator, a vac pac machine and ultrasonic infuser to develop his house distillates, clarify liquids and whatever else piques his interest. “The lab is equipped to make everything,” he grins mischievously.
Slice of Life is dimly lit and so moody that imbibing here feels like a private affair. Slide into either one of the shadowy booths or up to the ruby-red bar; pick a tipple from the concise cocktail menu; and watch black-clad bartenders pour, shake and stir with flair. There are only 10 drinks, and a substantial bubbly list by the bottle. (“Champagne is the perfect beverage for any time of the day. Breakfast, lunch, dinner… first thing in the morning,” winks Pan.)
There are also bite-sized snack offerings, like mushroom parfait, tartare, and egg- and salmon-roe-topped brioche. Inspired by Pan’s time as head bartender at KOL Mezcaleria cocktail bar in London, U.K., Slice of Life takes a pair of fresh ingredients, like coffee and cascara, and transforms them into two different drinks. Muskoka pine and Ontario cucumber are distilled for the Martini, which is a tequila-forward take with crème de cacao that might make a purist clutch their pearls. The pine is steeped into tea, and the cucumber is juiced for the Mezcal and Tonic, an ultra-fresh drink with a bright blast of menthol.
The menu changes monthly to feature whichever ingredients are in season. Don’t expect traditional flavours or a salt rim for the margarita, a double-agave-drenched sipper with a distillate made from Burdock Brewery azacca hops, a sorrel cordial and vegan foamer. Dubbing it a margarita was more of a marketing move, admits Pan — while they may have familiar names, these cocktails are far from classic.
The cocktail bar has earned international acclaim; this year, it was named one of the best drinking dens in the country by North America’s 50 Best Bars. “It’s honestly incredible,” gushes Pan. “People’s expectations of what we are have drastically shifted … The pressure is really on now.”
Ashley van der Laan
Espresso Martini
Slice of Life’s popular espresso martini tags in mezcal instead of vodka, plus ice wine and a De Mello coffee syrup, then adds a spritz of absinthe. The hot foam on top is the star, though. “I know the phone drinks first, but this is a very time-sensitive drink … have a big sip right away.”
Served at 70 C, the foam is made with cascara-infused cream and caramelized white chocolate that’s adorned with dehydrated miso. It’s similar to an Irish coffee, contends Pan.
Ashley van der Laan
Old Fashioned
“You’ll be surprised when you lift it to your face,” insists Pan. “You’re going to notice the aroma first. We finish it with a tonka essence … You get these nice vanilla, chocolatey notes.” When blended with cascara, the spiced rum’s fruity flavour profile brings this boozy sipper together.
The drink swaps bourbon for a rum blend. Instead of bitters, Slice of Life creates an aromatic Turkish coffee syrup by cold-infusing De Mello coffee with sugar, grapefruit, lemon and cardamom.
