OK, OK, Toronto's Waterfront isn't that bad. There are a handful of great bars and restaurants, and a couple of Toronto's best patios, but compared to other parts of the city, where you're spoiled for food and drink choice everywhere you look, the Waterfront has been a little... lacking. And compared to other cities that built their waterfronts as one long continuous stretch of boardwalk instead of chopping it up with industrial buildings (why Toronto?), our waterfront leaves much to be desired.
One of the newest restaurants to open in Toronto, Queens Harbour is a glimmering hope of light that the Toronto Waterfront could be more than it is. The sprawling, 800-seat restaurant is a destination that the Waterfront has desperately needed. Aside from the crowds of tourists who tottle their entire families around all day in the summer, there previously hasn't been much of a reason to visit the Waterfront the way that neighbourhoods like Trinity Bellwoods, Kensington Market or Yorkville draw visitors. But Queens Harbour could change that.
Queens Harbour: The vibe
In front of the restaurant, the massive patio is elevated and recessed from the sidewalk, offering views of the city and passersby from a comfortable distance, with the CN Tower looming overhead. A narrow side patio is right on the edge of the water next to boats bobbing in the harbour.
Stepping inside, the first thing to greet you is the restaurant's alluring signature scent. Co-founder Ali Badreddine says the restaurant was designed to invoke the feeling of escapism that you get when in places like Bali, Singapore or Santorini. With its palm-frond decorated ceiling, magnificent central bar, tiled flooring and an abundance of indoor trees and plants, Queens Harbour definitely exudes those tropical, vacation vibes.
On the other side of a long narrow hallway, where guests can see staff working away in the open kitchen, Queens Garden offers the exact same menu, just in a decidedly different space. Sunlight and fresh air pour down from the largest retractable restaurant roof in the country, making the two-level space feel like a romantic courtyard. Lush plants encircle the space, and in the centre, the emerald green, white and gold bar wraps around a tree.
Ambient house music is specially curated to invoke the bliss of partying on a beach holiday, without being distracting or overpowering. When we arrive at 6 p.m. on a Thursday, the melodic sounds almost blend into the background, and we can easily chat over the din. But by 10 p.m. (they say they don't need the table back so we're liiiiiingering), the DJ has cranked the tunes and I can't help but bop in my seat and pull out my phone to Shazam every other track.
Queens Harbour: What's on the menu
Familiar dishes and ingredients are presented in unique and interesting ways. Whipped feta comes loaded with perfectly firm, za'atar roasted carrots, delightfully crunchy arancini is stuffed with a creamy black truffle filling; and dips like hummus, labneh and muhammara come with irresistible, house-baked, puffed pita that I cannot stop eating, despite how many dishes are still on their way to our table.
There are plenty of different sushi rolls on the menu, each slathered in different sauces. The Queens Crispy Sushi roll, with tuna tartar, crispy golden rice, jalapeño and soy glaze; and The Miami roll, with salmon, tuna, crab, yuzu aioli and a sweet hit of mango are the favourites but the Papi Shrimp Tempura with jumbo shrimp, avocado, soy glaze, spicy umami mayo and a surprising but welcome crunch from asparagus, also hits. Of course, the most luxurious way to enjoy the shrimp tempura roll is alongside a six-ounce flat iron in the Steak & Sushi plate.
I love a good seafood tower, and for only $98, the Duchess Seafood Tower delivers. Topped with jumbo shrimp that really are ginormous (and juicy), the oceanic feast comes with a dozen P.E.I. oysters and all the accoutrements, plus salmon tataki, hamachi crudo and six pieces of nigiri.
It seems like every restaurant is doing rigatoni alla vodka right now, but Queens Harbour sets theirs apart by bringing the heat. It's surprisingly spicy, in the best way.
Two standout dishes blew the rest away, though. The chimichurri sea bass is a match made in heaven, pairing the delicate fish with the zesty, citrusy sauce that's packed with flavour. Meanwhile, my date and I gobbled up the Miso Black Cod like it was crack. The buttery cod is lip-smackingly sweet and savoury, with a gorgeous, melt-in-your-mouth texture. Plus, it's served with bok choi (because vegetables) and meaty king oyster mushrooms. I'm salivating just thinking about.
Queens Harbour: What's on the drink menu?
The White Peach & Yuzu Slush is my summer mood — it's sweet, strong and goes down way too easily. I could smash three of these without even realizing it. I'm also a big fan of mezcal, so the Cactus Flower Mezcal Margarita hits. One of many margs on the menu, this one balances the smoky mezcal with sweet desert pear for another crushable drink, but with a bit more complexity.
Reminiscent of a spicy marg, but made with vodka instead of tequila, the Spicy & Passionate is an easy drinking balance of heat and sweet. Sours, like the floral Rose Limoncello and the sweet and tart Fig & Herb are on point as well. Of course there's an espresso martini on the menu, but this one uses Turkish coffee for a bittersweet twist on the tipple. Poured on tap, the St. Tropez is like a grown-up Aperol spritz with the addition of vodka and elderflower.
Every drink we try is a crowd-pleasing, crushable serve, and most of them balance sweetness with tart, herbal, floral, spicy or just straight boozy flavours. Queens Harbour is an easy go-to spot for drinks and oodles of ambience. But I would also go back just to taste that Miso Black Cod again (and make my date order the Chimichuri Sea Bass). OK, there are a lot of reasons to hit up this spot again and, in all honesty, my next reservation is already booked. It's a gorgeous destination with several distinct dining areas, two patios and a retractable roof that opens up to the heavens. It sounds like a lot of flash, but the substance is there, too, and it definitely won me over.
Dinner and drinks for two: around $120 before tax and tip
