Jacobs Steakhouse: What's the vibe
Change can be hard. Stepping into Jacobs & Co. Steakhouse’s new home at CIBC Square, my jaw drops. Gone are the intimate, moody vibes of the original Brant Street location. In its place is a refined, expansive 14,000-square-foot space with a grand piano playing, a split-level dining room, and gleaming display cases of dry-aged meat and seafood, which we ogle en route to our table.
I arrive in the early evening, with sunlight still pouring through the floor-to-ceiling windows. It takes a moment to adjust to the new setting — Jacobs Steakhouse has moved up, literally, to the fourth floor, with panoramic city views, an outdoor patio, and private dining rooms. There’s a quiet grandeur here. DesignAgency has managed to retain the restaurant’s signature charm and polish — warm walnut, gold accents, cool stone — while ushering in a sleeker, modern style.
By the time the sun sets and I’ve got a glass of red in hand, the old Jacobs Steakhouse ambiance has crept back in. From early evening apéritifs to classic steakhouse after dark, Jacobs & Co. may have changed addresses, but its spirit remains very much intact.
Jacobs Steakhouse: What's on the menu
Jacobs Steakhouse was recently included on the World’s 101 Best Steakhouses list for the second consecutive year — the only chophouse in Toronto to make the cut. I would be remiss, then, not to mention some of the meatier moments during my visit to this Canadian steak ambassador. If indecision strikes, the Chef's Tasting offers a global tour of California-cut striploins, from Guelph to Australia to Japan.
While the steakhouse has had a quiet refresh, the menu still features many of the dishes that built its reputation since opening in 2007. Warm cheddar popovers — pillowy, Yorkshire pudding-adjacent — arrive with house-churned butter to start. The signature tableside caesar remains, too, with raw egg yolks, anchovies, garlic and lemon whisked into a dressing right before your eyes. And don’t leave without the classic coffee muffin, served for dessert or packed to go.
Though steaks are naturally a draw here, it's another salted protein at Jacobs Steakhouse that's ushering in the biggest change. “From our seafood program to the dry-aging fish room, there are so many fresh experiences to share with our guests," says executive chef Danny McCullum.
A gorgeous raw bar, featuring seasonal coastal selections, and a seafood platter, ensures that there's something on the menu for diners who lean less carnivorous. Guests can also take advantage of the daily weekday lunch service, available à la carte or as a prix fixe menu, which includes a starter, main and side.
Talking of sides, it's worth saving space. McCullum's duck-fat fries and leek-stuffed tortelli are just two of the deliciously dynamic accompaniments that help to balance out those meaty bites.
The price tag here could never be considered "budget," but there's value to be had during happy hour. Guests can sip $12 signature cocktails, $10 wine by the glass and $8 beer, alongside a snack menu featuring oysters, burgers and other small bites on weekdays from 2:30–5:30 p.m.
Jacobs Steakhouse: What to drink
Jacobs Steakhouse might need a shoulder rub after schlepping its 48-page wine list from its previous digs to CIBC Square. Order rare Hungarian wines, larger magnum bottles or champagne by the glass.
Cocktails are just as luxe, ranging from $24 for tipples like the One-Two Brant, a pisco sour riff, all the way up to $58 for the Jacobs Old Fashioned, with Macallan 12 Year Scotch and banana bitters.
If your bloated belly isn't enough of a souvenir, Jacobs Steakhouse now has a retail space. Pick up duck fat and tarragon potato chips, pre-batched cocktails and sommelier-selected wine, and take that old-world steakhouse swagger to go.
Around $400 for appetizers, mains and drinks for two, before tip.
