Arlo Wine & Restaurant: What’s the hype
Looking for a nice meal in a relaxed atmosphere during a weekend trip to Ottawa, I stumble upon Arlo Wine & Restaurant completely by accident. But when I see the small “Canada’s 100 Best” sign in the window (it’s ranked at number 49), I realize I may be in for more than I’m expecting.
Nestled in one of many beautiful, old red brick houses on a quaint tree-lined street, the charming restaurant is indicative of what I’ve been seeing all over Ottawa: a crop of modern, new drinking and dining establishments that could easily rival Toronto’s. The capital is shaking off its sleepy reputation, and Arlo is a prime example of excellent food and drink worth going out of the way for — although, it feels more like a neighbourhood haunt that you’d wander into.
Audrey Eve Beauchamp
The service is friendly and colloquial, making the staff’s expert wine knowledge approachable and digestible, while creating a vibe that feels like being at a wealthy (but humble) friend’s dinner party. The modern bistro interior is simple, with a few eye-catching details like rounded doorways, an arching backbar and lush greenery. In warmer months, the tree-shrouded back garden patio is as romantic as they come. A large bathtub filled with chilling bottles of wine tells us that despite its acclaim, Arlo is still a fun wine bar that doesn’t take itself too seriously.
Audrey Eve Beauchamp
Arlo Wine & Restaurant: The menu
A small but mighty menu doesn’t give diners a lot to choose from; the effort has gone into filling each inventive dish with unique and exciting flavour combinations. Ever-changing and inspired by the seasons, the playful plates are a showcase of Canadian cuisine. Co-owner and chef Jamie Stunt is self-taught, and perhaps that’s what facilitates his out-of-the-box thinking when it comes to his creative dishes.
Salads are usually nothing to write home about, but the last bites of the Little Gem + Rhubarb are worth fighting over. Loaded with tangy chunks of its namesake vegetable, the salad is covered in a citrusy Meyer lemon dressing accented with sumac, mint and feta. The main course, however, is heavenly. A delicate piece of crispy, pan-roasted ocean perch comes swimming in a slurp-able chive blossom and citrus butter sauce that has me wishing this moment would never end.
Arlo Wine & Restaurant: The wine list
The wonderfully languorous meal is made all the more special by its accompaniment: glasses of rare and unique natural wine. Sure, there are classic and seasonal cocktails and a few beers on the menu, but the restaurant is renowned for the expertly curated natural wine program by industry vet, sommelier and co-owner Alex McMahon.
Audrey Eve Beauchamp
We skip a bottle and opt to try as many pours as possible. Aside from Ontario’s beloved Pearl Morissette, every label on the list is unfamiliar to me — how unusual and exciting. We ask for our server’s suggested pairings with our dinner and are treated to a delicious grauburgunder from Germany, garganega from Italy and vinho verde from Portugal. Everything we taste is unfamiliar and exceptional.
Dinner and drinks for two: around $150 before tax and tip.
