Cody Wilkes from Simpl Things on his must-try meals around Toronto

Nestled on a side street in Parkdale, Simpl Things is more than just a neighbourhood restaurant — it's one of the city's best cocktail bars, a comfort food sanctuary and a testament to chef Cody Wilkes's creative hustle. 

Wilkes's culinary journey launched in the eye of the pandemic storm when he began whipping up pasta for friends and neighbours before teaming up with owner and beverage wizard Evelyn Chick to bring Simpl Things to life. 

Now with a menu that reads like an ode to the 90s, and regulars filling the cozy dining room for shareable plates and inventive cocktails, Wilkes has put his stamp on one of the city's trendiest dining rooms.

We caught up with the executive chef to get his lowdown on everything from late-night bites to the city's best burgers, pizza and sweet treats. 

First of all, tell me about the new menu at Simpl Things.

Jessica Blaine Smith

"It’s honestly an ode to the ’90s. I grew up in that era, and Chinese, Chinese-American and Chinese-Canadian cuisine was a very large staple in my family. We wanted the menu to be comforting, to remind you of your childhood — flavours I’ve tried a hundred times over, but with a comforting (and maybe) elevated spin on the classics. We use choice cuts, showcase different vegetables, and want to create food that’s inviting. Big, shareable meals that go really well with drinks. The goal is to keep people here, make it feel like home, and let the space hum with energy when it’s full.”

What’s a new place that you tried recently and loved?

“On the recommendation of a friend, I went to Casa Paco and had a lovely meal. I was absolutely floored by the service — super attentive, without it feeling overbearing or crowded. The food was delicious — that little bit of Spanish flair. I'm a sucker for seafood.

"We had the octopus, the patatas bravas and grilled-beef-something. It was fantastic — a five-star meal. And, you know, even with wine and everything, tax and tip, I think for the two of us it was under $300. I was really impressed.”

The splurge? The dream meal?

"I really want to try Prime Seafood Palace. I've never been, but I've always heard great things. The thing is, I know what kind of eater I am, and this would be a several-month savings commitment, because I'm going to spend upwards of $700-800 per person."

"Give me the caviar service, I want the crab leg, tell me where the salmon is from — if it got off the plane 45 minutes ago, even better. Give me all of it. I want the thickest cut of prime rib — you can put a clock beside me to see how fast I can eat it. I want to be extremely gluttonous. And I feel like the money is the only obstacle."

Go-to bar? 

"I'm biased because they're good friends, but I love Cry Baby Gallery. I love that dark-iron, backlit-bar vibe. The staff is incredibly friendly and very knowledgeable, and the drinks are always delicious. I love their seasonal menus. I love how they put together the booklets for the menus. The last one that they did was like a Yellow Pages, which I thought was an absolute riot. It's probably my go-to bar when I want to go out with some friends."

Your favourite cocktail?

Jessica Blaine Smith

"I'm a big rum guy, which is so odd, because so many Torontonians are tequila or rye drinkers. I love the painkiller. It's probably my favourite cocktail I've ever drunk, which is in the tens of thousands now at this point. I worked in the British Virgin Islands, where the cocktail is from. You drink it out of an empty coconut can of coconut milk. It's warm and huggy, because of the nutmeg, but also has coconut milk, citrus and rum.”

Local restaurant (besides your own)?

"I really like the vibe of Bar Vendetta. It's a cute room, but also the fact that it's in the space of the old Black Hoof. It's a piece of Toronto history, but it also has very delicious food. The wine list is impeccable, the service is fantastic. You're always welcome, and it's just a good time."

Late-night eats?

"I love Chinatown; you'll always see me at dim sum. I love Swatow Restaurant. I could bathe in the chilli chicken and not be upset, or the black bean oyster tenderloin."

"When it comes to snacky snacks, I do love Seoul Shakers up on Bloor. I will order the kimchi chopped cheese and have it with some cocktails. You know, when that midnight vibe kicks in, and you just want something greasy, fatty and spicy?"

Jessica Blaine Smith

Best coffee in the city?

"Larry's Place, either the Parkdale location, or Larry's, Backpocket Hands [Dundas West]. Hands down, they make some of the best coffee in the city, roasted himself. The staff are so welcoming, inviting and friendly. I'm there four times a day. I drink cortados with whole milk and they get it right every single time."

Favourite sweet treat?

"Robinson Bread, the bakery, makes a brown butter cinnamon swirl that changed my life when I first had it. I'm also very partial to Ed's Real Scoop ice cream shop. I'm a huge supporter of them. I go to the Leslieville location religiously with my son for scoops of ice cream. I take my dog now and it's hilarious because we see who can eat the ice cream the fastest. So far, my dog always wins."

Are you a brunch person?

"I usually end up making brunch [at home]. But as a true Torontonian, I love brunch. Pancakes at three in the afternoon? Yes please! Eggs Benedict at 11 a.m.? Sign me up. I like that spot, Petit Dejeuner. They make great waffles."

Jessica Blaine Smith

Favourite neighbourhood?

"It's probably gonna be Little Portugal. I love the bar scene. I am a late-night guy, but I'm also an early-morning guy — I just don't believe in sleep. My buddy is the chef at Enoteca Sociale. [Then there's] Mahjong Bar and Bar Mordecai. All cute, intimate venues that I love going to support. Evelyn Chick and Christina [Veira, co-owner at Bar Mordecai] are best friends, and she's been a huge supporter of our food program at Simpl Things since day one. I love trying their drinks, and they have a soft serve ice-cream machine during the summer."

Top date night spot?

"Lake Inez. I did the mystery tasting menu one year and was floored. I know Jay Moore, the chef-owner, from when we were working next door at Mattachioni on Gerard, so it was great to see him — we rekindled our friendship."

Favourite burger?

"I get a lot of flak for this, but I stand by my choice. My burger go-to is Five Guys. They never get it wrong. I can change it six ways from Sunday, however I want it, and it's fantastic. I always get my meal with one of those shakes, like bacon and peanut butter. If you're gonna be gluttonous, just do it all at once."

Favourite pizza?

"If I had to pick a pizza spot, it would be Mac's because I think that he does an incredible slice. They're always good, the pies are fantastic. I wish that I lived closer, in the delivery radius, because there aren't a lot of guys that make a good New York-style pizza."

Fave cheap eats?

"I love Loga's Corner for their momos. I think that $8 for 10 pieces of anything handmade is an absolute steal of a deal. The hot sauce is fantastic. The pickled daikon always needs more pickle, if you ask me, but it's still yummy."

"I was at Gerrard Square the other week in the food court, and one of the vendors was serving Chinese food. It was phenomenal and only cost $12. The styrofoam container was so full that they had to throw an elastic band around to close it. I didn't want to tell a soul, but I'll let you know because it was such a good deal."