What started as a trickle has swelled into a full-on sandwich surge. Spots like Lambo’s Deli and Grandma Loves You led the charge, instantly winning hearts with classic cold cuts and a healthy mix of innovation and nostalgia. Italian subs initially dominated the city’s sandwich sphere, but now, places are popping up all over Toronto, catering to a newfound, near-frantic sandwich obsession. Sandos have gone completely rogue: juicy steak sammies; inventive vegan concoctions and meat-loaded deli delights all whet our appetites and fill our Instagram feeds.
“There’s this big return to the classic and comfortable, and the popularity of just sitting in the park — it’s everyone’s new favourite thing,” says chef Ethan Rogers from Linny’s Luncheonette. “People are looking for something easy, fun and flavourful to grab-and-go and enjoy.” The casual lunch counter on Ossington is the sister restaurant of fine-dining restaurant Linny’s, and the latest in a line of upscale restaurants expanding into sandwich slinging.
Toronto diners are penny-pinching — and it shows. “In this economy, it’s hard to go out and spend $300–$400 on dinner,” says Dane Kumar, co-owner of Leslie’s Sandwich Room. “But if you can find a decent meal for $25 and it’s the best sandwich, you’re like ‘OK, this is pretty sweet!’”
Sandwiches seem to tick off all the boxes: In a handheld, budget-friendly package, we get an entire meal with a mix of textures and flavours. But the city’s obsession is more than just a utilitarian desire to fill up on a budget. Toronto’s top sandwich makers fill us in on what makes their fillings (and bread) so special, and their takes on the meal’s recent resurgence.
5 Toronto sandwich shops that people are obsessed with
1. Paris Steak
120 Atlantic Ave.
Hector Vasquez
Paris Steak co-owner Peter Armanious wanted to build a spot that ditches the conventional steakhouse white tablecloths and high prices, but still delivers on a great cut of beef. At the bistro-inspired, steak sandwich shop in Liberty Village, there are three AAA cuts of beef on the menu. Ribeye, striploin and flatiron are dry-aged for at least 30 days, butchered in-house and cooked medium-rare (though they’ll accommodate other preferences). A toasted, buttered ciabatta bun presents the thickly sliced layers of beef, slathered with a vinegary, jalapeno chimichurri and topped with arugula salad.
Peter Armanious, co-owner of Paris Steak
Hector Vasquez
With each sandwich boasting a substantial six to seven ounces of beef, the well-balanced handheld truly eats like a proper meal out, sans hefty bill. “There’s something about a nice bun, a little chimichurri on it and a well-salted steak that’s heavenly,” says Armanious. And while Paris Steak does offer steak frites and steak salad, too, he’s spot on about the simplicity of the sandwiches’ protein and carb combo slapping.
2. Stefano’s Diner
1265 Dundas St. W.
Hector Vasquez
Born from a pandemic pivot, Stefano’s initially began as a sandwich pop-up out of sister restaurant Gia (formerly Ufficio) before becoming its own brick-and-mortar vegan diner last fall. Named after owner Jennifer Coburn’s late pup, who inspired her desire to stop serving animal products, the 20-seat restaurant is 100 per cent plant-based, but according to Coburn, guests are just as likely to be carnivores as vegetarians. Our eating and spending habits have shifted. Many of us are eating plant-based meals more often, and at Stefano’s, that’s not a hardship — even for the most hardcore of meat lovers, like myself.
Jennifer Coburn, owner of Stefano’s Diner
Hector Vasquez
Biting into the light, crusty bun from North Pole Bakery, stacked with layers of mortadella, ham, smoked provolone, arugula and topped with house-made Italian dressing, I forget that my mouthful of meat is plant-based. Sourced from Nonno’s in Hamilton, these delicate slices of deli “meat” have diners going ballistic, especially vegans. “They haven’t had that experience in a while!” says Coburn.
3. Leslie’s Sandwich Room
969 Queen St. E.
The best-sellers at Leslie’s Sandwich Room are two of their meatier options, but it’s not just the proteins that win over diners: The textures are a match made in heaven. Bite into a sandwich here, and you’ll find irresistible crunchy components (hello, delightfully crispy shallots) and tasty twists.
La Boeuf features thinly sliced beef striploin, instead of the usual bottom round, with sharp cheddar and horseradish rose marie (think creamy mayo with a subtly spicy kick). Meanwhile, La Morta sees a pile of mortadella, mozzarella and pistachios dressed with a pesto that’s made with cilantro instead of basil for an unexpectedly brighter, but more divisive flavour.
Don’t overlook the vegetarian 7 E 11, though. The Leslieville eatery’s version of the cult-fave egg salad sandwiches found in Japanese 7-Eleven stores features the creamy eggy filling packed into two soft, fluffy slices of Pullman loaf. One crust is coated with chopped spring onions and the other with a bright orange, spicy togarashi seasoning. Grabbing the squishy bread between my hands is as pleasing as I imagined, while the creamy filling is at once familiar and comforting but also different and exciting.
Dane Kumar, co-owner of Leslie’s Sandwich Room
Hector Vasquez
Co-owner Dane Kumar noticed that diners want to eat nostalgic, casual comfort foods that were once looked down on — but as elevated meals made with high-quality provisions. People are moving towards spending less and enjoying simpler foods, like a sandwich that’s been made with great ingredients, he says. And, in full transparency, Kumar comes clean: Part of what drove him to open Leslie’s with friends was that he simply couldn’t find a decent sandwich in his neighbourhood to satisfy his cravings.
4. Linny’s Luncheonette
174 Ossington Ave.
Hector Vasquez
The pastrami sandwich at Linny’s Luncheonette appears to be simple — but take a bite and you can tell this is a recipe that’s been laboured over. “We use beef navel, not a traditional brisket. It’s more complicated to trim to make sure the sandwiches are perfect every time,” says chef Ethan Rogers. But the effort is worth it: “You have the incredibly juicy melt-in-your-mouth pastrami no matter which part of it you’re cutting.”
When David Schwartz of Big Hug Hospitality approached him about working on a steakhouse and deli concept, Rogers, a longtime deli lover himself, was immediately on board. “The ethos at Linny’s Luncheonette is to keep it simple while reflecting on effort, technique and where the product comes from,” says Rogers. “It brings that classic deli culture to the west end of Toronto, so everyone can experience it without having to drive up to Thornhill or Vaughan.”
Ethan Rogers, chef at Linny's Luncheonette
Hector Vasquez
The Ossington Avenue deli counter is the sister to upscale Linny’s steakhouse next door, and offers a handful of sandwiches, including their famous pastrami, a prime example of simple ingredients prepared with expert precision to exceptional effect. The beef is brined for five days, then smoked for 12 to 14 hours with white oak wood chips, which imbues the meat with a neutral smoky richness. Finally, it’s finished with the signature Linny’s rub. It’s sliced thick, cushioned between two slices of Aba’s Bagel Company light rye and dressed with a clean, lightly acidic yellow mustard. Montreal is renowned for its pastrami, but Linny’s Luncheonette is a top contender for putting Toronto on the smoked meat map.
5. Alfie’s Sandwiches + Market
36 Baldwin St.
Hector Vasquez
The award for “most viral” sandwich goes to Alfie’s Monalisa Bacio — a hefty two-hander made with sourdough focaccia filled with prosciutto di Parma, truffle cream, burrata, lemon basil pesto, chopped pistachios and baby arugula. While the plump and pleasing whole ball of burrata in each Monalisa has captured everyone’s attention, the crisp and chewy focaccia has equal star power. Alfie’s owner, Alex Rad of barbecue joint SmoQue N’ Bones, spent more than six months perfecting the sourdough, which is fermented for 72 hours and baked fresh in-house throughout the day.
Rad believes sandwiches have always been de rigueur, but our hunger for variety and our price-conscious lifestyles have contributed to the recent boom. Rad would have been ahead of it: He had the idea to open a sandwich spot several years ago, but construction delays pushed Alfie’s opening to this past March — a delay that turned out to be a silver lining. The extra time allowed Rad and his team to perfect the sourdough and carefully recipe test the robust menu to create something that, while inspired by the fresh choices in Italy, is uniquely Toronto.
Alex Rad, owner of Alfie’s Sandwiches + Market
Hector Vasquez
With sandwiches regularly selling out before close, customers sometimes leave empty-handed and disappointed. But Rad hopes guests understand that the same delicious elements that have them clamouring to try Alfie’s sandwiches also limit how many the Kensington Market eatery can make. Besides the three-day sourdough fermentation, each week they purchase as much burrata as Cheese Boutique can import for them from Italy, while everything else is made from scratch in-house. On top of that, each of the whopping 22 sandwiches on the menu is made-to-order, which takes time — but good things come to those who wait.
“It’s been a beautiful journey,” says Rad, a self-proclaimed non-baker whose sandwiches are adored the city over.
